The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest

The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest

Anatoli Boukreev

Language: English

Pages: 416

ISBN: 0312206372

Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub

Everest, the major motion picture from Universal Pictures, is set for wide release on September 18, 2015. Read The Climb, Anatoli Boukreev (portrayed by Ingvar SigurĂ°sson in the film) and G. Weston DeWalt s compelling account of those fateful events on Everest.

In May 1996 three expeditions attempted to climb Mount Everest on the Southeast Ridge route pioneered by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953. Crowded conditions slowed their progress. Late in the day twenty-three men and women-including expedition leaders Scott Fischer and Rob Hall-were caught in a ferocious blizzard. Disoriented and out of oxygen, climbers struggled to find their way down the mountain as darkness approached. Alone and climbing blind, Anatoli Boukreev brought climbers back from the edge of certain death. This new edition includes a transcript of the Mountain Madness expedition debriefing recorded five days after the tragedy, as well as G. Weston DeWalt's response to Into Thin Air author Jon Krakauer.

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the expedition were jetting back to the States, he was holed up in Kathmandu's cheapest hotel and selling off his climbing gear to purchase a ticket home to Almaty. Looking into a mirror one day, he realized that after the rigors and challenges of Makalu he had actually gained weight on the expedition food, much better than what he could buy at home. All of his American counterparts had lost weight, some of them as much as nine kilograms (20 pounds). That was the near bottom of his career, and he

because Fischer agreed to advance him some money on his contract, he wouldn't have to sell his ice ax or any other gear to get a ticket home. Similarly, Fischer was satisfied. For his expedition and his clients he had been able to secure the services of one of the Himalaya's strongest climbers. Boukreev, he told friends their agreement. For the first time in years, later, was hired for a very specific purpose. "If we get THE CLIMB 28 our butts into trouble, Anatoli will be there to pull us

enforces my regot mad. spect for a grown-up expedition leader. ... I got fucking mad." . The ended . . issue unresolved, Fischer and Gammelgaard he might be able to help settle their dispute, left his tent and caught up to Fischer as he headed toward the quiet and privacy of his own tent. their conversation. Boukreev, sensing that We had much to catch up on, and asked him how it had gone with Pete Schoening. Scott told me that it had gone well enough, but that Pete was still unable to

implying there could be more than one attempt made. Mountain Madness ership 'Tor all THE COUNTDOWN 133 too good.' So they went into the tent and talked to him, and they thought he was a litde out of it, too. When I got to Camp II, Scott and Neal were already there drinking some tea. So I told them Kruse was in trouble. They said they'd suspected he'd have a problem, and Scott said, 'Okay, he's out of here. 'So I said, 'Hey, look, just wait until Tim and Charlotte get here on the

tried, but they had a small problem: Kiev Schoening was threatening to leave the tent and sleep outside in the storm! Adams remembered, "When we were trying to sleep, Kiev, who I think was suffering symptoms of AMS, started yelling at everybody to move over, which was a little strange, because Lene, Toli, and I were already squeezed into one-half of the tent while Kiev was our packs." Gammelgaard and and quizzical looks, but didn't respond, because, as Adams said, "Kiev is a nice in the other

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