Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills (2nd Edition) (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert)

Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills (2nd Edition) (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert)

Craig Luebben, Topher Donahue

Language: English

Pages: 259


Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub

• Approximately 35 new techniques, safety considerations, and subjects
• National Outdoor Book Award winner in first edition
• First edition of this popular title has sold 50,000 copies

Thousands of rock climbers have learned the sport using Craig Luebben’s seminal and bestselling text, Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills. Now Craig’s friend and fellow climber Topher Donahue brings the content up to current standards and includes technological advances, while preserving Craig’s comprehensive approach. An award-winning climber in his own right, Topher uses his writing and photography skills to simplify the complex world of modern climbing technique and reveals the thought process behind safe and practical climbing methods.

This second edition includes European climbing techniques that offer alternatives to those traditionally taught in North America. Topher has also incorporated new lessons derived from accidents due, in part, to the increased popularity of climbing. Also found in this edition:

• Over 10,000 more words and 125 more photos
• Three never-before-published techniques: Adjustable Hitch, High Friction Tubes, and Bight Method
• Detailed technical updates throughout
• New distinction between “anchor” (a group of placements, pieces, or bolts used at the end of a pitch or for top rope or rappel setup) and “placement” or “piece” (individual cams, nuts, etc., used in groups to make an anchor or used individually as protection on a pitch)

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ball nuts belaying from Big Bro expandable tubes bolt rappel camming units. See camming units chocks. See chocks directional gear placements below ERNEST evolution of master point of natural rappel. See rappel anchors rigging of. See rigging of anchors top-rope anchor placements anchoring belayer top-roping arm bar assisted lock device attitude autoblock autoblocking belay device autolocking carabiners autolocking friction hitch Bachmann hitch back-anchor backstepping

tugs imperceptible to the belayer. Even when you can hear your partner and are using verbal signals, paying attention to the silent communication will make you a safer climber and the both of you a better team. For example, if you are not positive it was your partner who yelled “Off belay,” wait a bit to be sure the rope begins to move extremely fast as she pulls up the extra slack. Or, if you’re not positive it was your partner yelling “On belay,” be sure that the rope starts moving in that

anchors (so you have two equal-length strands of rope, both reaching the ground). 4.Set the rappel device and an autoblock backup on both rope strands. 5.Double-check the rappel setup then unclip from the anchors and clean the gear from them. 6.Rappel back to the ground. BELAYING A SPORT ROUTE Sport climbing creates a few special considerations for belaying. Although any standard belay device works for belaying a sport route, many sport climbers favor assisted lock devices or high-friction

multipitch climbs before embarking on longer, harder ones. If you climb long enough, it’s likely that you will be involved in a climbing mishap, either yours or someone else’s. To be prepared, study the self-rescue section in Chapter 14, Climbing Safe, take a self-rescue course from a certified guide, or be disciplined to do an exhaustive self-study on rescue methods. Self-rescue methods are not only important in case of a mishap, but give you the techniques you need to get out of sticky

out, the shorter coils will feed first without tangling on the longer coils. If the rock below is smooth, make the lap coils longer so you have fewer coils and therefore less rope stacked over your harness. Don’t let the coils hang low enough that they could snag on a feature or go out of sight. On a perfectly smooth slab, the coils can be very long. Longer coils are faster to make and easier to manage—unless they get stuck below, out of your reach, which could strand the leader, who cannot move

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